30 April Departure from Ringha, Start of Tiger Leaping Gorge (Hutiao Xia) trek

We would recommend staying at The Banyan Tree Ringha for rest, reading, relaxation and meditation. It is a peaceful place, outside / remote from the main busy Shangrila (Xiang Ge Li La) city, with tasty local food and charming staff. Come soon before the city expands and ruins the valley; the plans for a shopping precinct nearby were abandoned when the developer disappeared without financing the work.

Jade Snow Mountain

The trips we recommend were tailored for us. We recommend hiring a guide if you cannot speak Mandarin. This is not cheap but worth it if you want to get the most out of your visit. Balagezong National park is our top pick. Followed by walking with the Tibetan Mastiff Langka and the mutt Nu Nu; the cycle ride around Napa Lake was also great for us as we needed fresh air and exercise but otherwise not a very beautiful lake (in April).

Mario, (Aussie Italian manager and owner of Langka), Jane (front office manager), Lobsang (young guide), Della (made her own mix of Tibetan noodles for us for breakfast), Ada, Lily (v helpful with menu suggestions in restaurant) and Tony. (a very shy 13 year old trainee) were smiley, helpful, friendly and made our stay most enjoyable. June is supposed to be the best month-but visit soon before it's too late.

On the way to Tiger Leaping gorge (TLG) we discussed Meia snow mountain; unconquerable at 6000m+. A team of 17 Japanese and Chinese tried to climb it but never returned. It was named as a Sacred place and the government will not allow climbers to try again. A similar disaster occurred in Tiger Leaping Gorge.



There was construction all along the route from Shangrila to TLG. Dusty busy main highway. Large plains with villages growing into each other, deep ravines and gorges. Road building and expansion in the name of progress to house the growing population.  As it is a long weekend (1 May holiday) we spot several packed tourist buses heading both ways. Mr Yang the taxi driver sings to us on the way or chats away to Joey; he said a prayer for us to be safe wherever we travel. Maybe we need it with the crazy driving in evidence! Overtaking on corners, 3 cars abreast in 2 lane road, undertaking, locals, pigs, yaks wandering across.. Cars approaching head on in our lane, etc. Brought Sarah out in a hot sweat with no need for exercise! Chinese could buy a driving licence until 2013 but now there is a practical test for new drivers. You must use your horn as you overtake, makes driving v v noisy. This may explain some of the crazy driving blamed on Chinese in NZ!



Spotted some very hairy yak tails hanging outside what looks like a meat/butcher shop.
We all guess why? For oxtail soup or as a duster? a: removing flies/dust or as a duster. We spot one outside a house later.

After 1 hour, we left the Tibetan area and entered the area of Yi tribe and spotted Haba snow mountain in the distance.  T



here are 20 different tribes in Shangrila (but is mostly Tibetan) Lijiang has different tribes too but is mostly Naxi. On the way, we descended huge gorges with Hydro-electric plants diverting the flow of the rivers below. Nothing but a trickle left in some parts.

Arrival at Qiaotuo meant we had to purchase a ticket for Tiger Leaping Gorge (normally ¥65 but only ¥52 as a Chinese holiday w/e. We deposited our bags at Jane's guest house (¥5 per bag for 2 days) and jumped back in the taxi. (Current FX rate is just over 6 RMB = USD1).




Before starting on the upper gorge track we visited the upper tiger leaping rock (a 13m rock mid river) with masses of bussed-in tourists.

Many do not trek in the gorge but just visit by bus, stopping along the lower road to look at the scenery.


















Some even descend by sedan chair. Must be exhausting work for the carriers (but well remunerated) and terrifying for the seated as the angle down is pretty steep.





It was busy but an informative short walk. The gorge is 23km long with the narrowest point 20m across.

The gorge splits Jade snow mountain at 5596 metres and Haba snow mountain 5396m.  The lowest point of the gorge is at 1600m.






The rock is a place where it is said that a tiger leapt across - hence the name. The timber path included (of course) a stone tiger or 2.

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There are also middle and lower tiger leaping rocks to stop off at. Maybe one is enough? But not for someone – see later.

The upper reaches of the Yangtze is also called the Jinsha or Chin-sha in Chinese. In 1986 11 Chinese rafters lost their lives trying to raft the Yangtze along Tiger Leaping Gorge. No one has attempted it since; no wonder based on the speed of the flow even before the rainy season starts.



The start of the upper Tiger Leaping Gorge trek was closed for repairs so we had a 2.6km walk along a construction road before reaching the track.


It was quite steep (pulling on calf muscles) and we walked very slowly upwards.

A local loitered close to us to see if he could sell us a ride on his horse. Instead we fed the horse our apple cores.




As there is a new bridge being built, the pounding noise of construction spoilt the first part of the walk up to Naxi Guest house.

 The view to one side included cement works and scars from excavation. The Jade snow mountain was partly hidden behind clouds but we did start to appreciate the views. 

Spotted some interesting signs along the way but very few people.

A vegetarian meal at Naxi guest house awaited us (they grow all their own veggies on the terraces around the village and were drying their maize in the courtyard)









A last look at the mountain from the terrace with a spot of reading

 before falling into bed to warm up after sunset at 8pm.