Our adventure began again this morning after a fresh smattering of snow. We were confidently informed that:
“Shangrila weather is like a child’s face; changes all the time!”
On the way to hire bikes, Lobsang informed us of some of the local traditions.
1. Death
When a person dies in Ringha, the dead body lies in the house for 3 days whilst the Buddhist monks pray. One’s spirit (given by Buddha) returns to Buddha and is reincarnated; the body (from nature) is cut into 108 pieces (v lucky number for Buddhists) and thrown into the Shugan river. Good job we did not attempt to drink any of this as we walked next to it yesterday. The Napa lake area people practise sky burial; 108 pieces of the body are left in the fields for vultures as there is no moving water in the lake.
If you die as a baby wherever you are, the baby gets a valley burial; the baby is not cut up but just put into a tree for vultures.
Luckily no burials in the valley today, the only thing we saw was the spikes /racks on which grass and barley is dried before being fed to animals.
If you die as a baby wherever you are, the baby gets a valley burial; the baby is not cut up but just put into a tree for vultures.
Luckily no burials in the valley today, the only thing we saw was the spikes /racks on which grass and barley is dried before being fed to animals.
2. Marriage
All in the village, marry very early around 12 or 13 years old. The oldest child has a marriage arranged by parents. The second child can choose. Can have 2 husbands or wives. If rich. If v poor can have 2 husbands to help family. Can change every 1/2 year. Lobsang is the second child (most still only have 2) he is 21, his mother 36 and his grandmother 50 (making us both old enough to be his…..)
Hiring bikes from Shangrila old town was quite straightforward with a local guide, as was getting out of the town. We would not have attempted this on our own as almost all signs are in Mandarin. Both being old ladies, we were rather surprised to find that Lobsang struggled on the bike ride; Sarah led the pack all day!
3. All the white stupas around the hotel are just for show, but white stupas are lucky. There are also money stupas.
We spotted some women around the Napa Lake area, walking around these – very many times. Wonder if it is the same odds as winning a lottery?
We spotted some women around the Napa Lake area, walking around these – very many times. Wonder if it is the same odds as winning a lottery?
4. There is house building everywhere, but local traditions in clothing remain.
Young girls wear bright coloured headwear to attract young bucks (according to Lobsang) wonder what he made of Jo in her alternate cycle helmet?
Older women wear darker headgear. Spotted a couple taking baby for a walk whilst cycling past half built houses.
Napa Lake
Took a while to get to as most of it is marsh or muddy green patches and ponds with cattle, yaks pigs and sheep.
Every family keeps Yaks as all drink yak butter tea, every morning. It is also a Tibetan medicine.
Every family keeps Yaks as all drink yak butter tea, every morning. It is also a Tibetan medicine.
The lake itself is not very big unless as we did not visit in the rainy season (June)
We avoided the tourist trap stops with lots of horses dressed up to ride and just enjoyed a bit of exercise on a mountain bike.
The ride took 2hours 45 minutes with some interesting lake like views. The sun came out every now and again and we both managed to look rosy cheeked by the time we had finished. Lobsang had to push his bike up the last hill (a busy road with a long gentle ascent). One up to the grannies.
Next up the old town
Shangri La (Chinese: 香格里拉 Xiānggélǐlā) was officially renamed from Zhongdian on 17 December 2001 because of its claim to be the inspiration for the novel Lost Horizon (1933).
The China Daily has an interesting article on this: http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/english/doc/2005-09/24/content_480493.htm. Alternatively you can read the Wiki version - renamed for marketing purposes only: http://wikitravel.org/en/Shangrila.
We would not necessarily connect what we have seen so far with the fictional Shangri-la from the movies. But maybe once before in 1933 or before all the modernisation.We still loved the old market- the place where the Banyan Tree buys all its food. Like HK in a way or an old indoor market in London 20 years ago?
When Lobsang was small only 2 cars in Zhongdian (both owned by the Govt) Everyone else was on a bicycle on mud roads. Now every family have at least 1 car and there is building everywhere. Every corner has cctv camera (cannot use phone or smoke in car). The cameras go off a lot as the govt checks on all cars.
We sauntered through the old town, learning that most of it was burnt down in 2014 and only the face remains.
The temples were beautiful with the cherry blossom just starting to emerge.
In the square in front of the temple, we saw a Yak and a Tibetan Mastiff available for tourists to take photos. Later the hotel manager Mario told us that the animals there were drugged for tourists to take photos and pose with. Disgusted, we have omitted their photos.
We left with a blue silk and purple Yak jacket all very reasonable from the Shangrila Artisans Gallery (to side of the main temple)
On the whole a very enjoyable day.
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